Guys... Can you help me before I kick this thing down the steps. Things have been great until tonight. I had some weird issues earlier, and it went downhill from there. Every time I try to print this one particular model that I've printed several times before, the lines don't adhere to the bed or lay down out of register and split. When the fill process happens, it's just a bloody mess. Usually everything gets dragged around. I've leveled the bed manually over and over and I think it's fine.

Here's the kicker that is really driving me nuts. I'm printing a demo file from the printer itself, and it's printing PERFECT!!
I mean.. no blobs, no burns... it's close to perfect. So what the HECK am I doing wrong in Slic3r?! I'm a grown man and literally almost in tears. It's just about the most frustrating thing I've ever dealt with. Again... The demo file looks UH-MAZING! Why can't I get this quality??

Sorry to rant.. I'm really over it.

Thanks for any info you can give.

**UPDATE**
There are a few blobs on the demo, but 98% is perfect. I'm also noticing the extruder will move over to the side for a second (I'm sure to let the plastic cool) while it prints the narrow skinny part of the gauntlet (or whatever the demo file is). Where is that setting in Slic3r? That's actually the least of my concerns, but I noticed it and thought I'd mention it.

If the demo is printing fine, it's just your settings. I don't use Slic3r, but some software options will let you import settings from an existing gcode file. you may be able to import the demo file that is printing well and see the temp, print speed, etc. Alternatively, you can open the gcode file in notepad and manually browse through the code to see what settings they are using.

The "move to the side and wait" setting is for cooling as you mentioned. Cura calls it Cool Head Lift. Again, I don't use Slic3r, but this is normally in the cooling and/or "expert" settings of a slicing program.

Thanks, Andrew. That actually occurred to me this morning. I'm going to see if I can import the file from the SD card. Thanks for listening to my tantrum.

Most of this looks Greek to me. What is the acceleration value of 1000? Like I said, Greek.

< 8:46:01 AM: File opened:sample02.gcode Size:426855
< 8:46:01 AM: File selected
< 8:46:01 AM: Info:Absolute positioning
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:2 75 230400 Baudrate
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 1125 1 Display Mode:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 1119 1 Light On:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 1127 1 Keep Light On:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 1126 0 Filament Sensor On:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 1176 0 Top Sensor On:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 1120 1 Sound On:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 129 502.110 Filament printed [m]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:2 125 516665 Printer active [s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:2 79 0 Max. inactive time [ms,0=off]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:2 83 360000 Stop stepper after inactivity [ms,0=off]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:2 1121 2700000 Powersave after [ms,0=off]:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1160 180.000 Temp Ext PLA:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1164 230.000 Temp Ext ABS:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1168 60.000 Temp Bed PLA:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1172 90.000 Temp Bed ABS:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1179 2.000 Load Feed Rate:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1183 4.000 Unload Feed Rate:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1187 60.000 Unload/Load Distance:
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 3 80.0000 X-axis steps per mm
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 7 80.0000 Y-axis steps per mm
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 11 2560.0000 Z-axis steps per mm
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 15 200.000 X-axis max. feedrate [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 19 200.000 Y-axis max. feedrate [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 23 5.000 Z-axis max. feedrate [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 27 40.000 X-axis homing feedrate [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 31 40.000 Y-axis homing feedrate [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 35 4.000 Z-axis homing feedrate [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 39 20.000 Max. jerk [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 47 0.300 Max. Z-jerk [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 133 -33.000 X home pos [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 137 -12.000 Y home pos [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 141 0.000 Z home pos [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 145 237.000 X max length [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 149 217.000 Y max length [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 153 200.000 Z max length [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 157 0.000 X backlash [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 161 0.000 Y backlash [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 165 0.000 Z backlash [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 51 1000.000 X-axis acceleration [mm/s^2]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 55 1000.000 Y-axis acceleration [mm/s^2]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 59 100.000 Z-axis acceleration [mm/s^2]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 63 1000.000 X-axis travel acceleration [mm/s^2]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 67 1000.000 Y-axis travel acceleration [mm/s^2]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 71 150.000 Z-axis travel acceleration [mm/s^2]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1128 100.000 Manual-probe X1
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1132 190.000 Manual-probe Y1
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1136 100.000 Manual-probe X2
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1140 10.000 Manual-probe Y2
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1144 10.000 Manual-probe X3
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1148 100.000 Manual-probe Y3
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1152 190.000 Manual-probe X4
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1156 100.000 Manual-probe Y4
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 808 0.280 Z-probe height [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 929 5.000 Max. z-probe - bed dist. [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 812 1.000 Z-probe speed [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 840 150.000 Z-probe x-y-speed [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 800 0.000 Z-probe offset x [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 804 0.000 Z-probe offset y [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 816 -7.000 Z-probe X1
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 820 -10.000 Z-probe Y1
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 824 -7.000 Z-probe X2
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 828 205.000 Z-probe Y2
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 832 179.000 Z-probe X3
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 836 205.000 Z-probe Y3
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 880 1 Autolevel active (1/0)
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 106 2 Bed Heat Manager [0-3]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 107 255 Bed PID drive max
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 124 80 Bed PID drive min
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 108 196.000 Bed PID P-gain
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 112 33.000 Bed PID I-gain
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 116 290.000 Bed PID D-gain
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 120 255 Bed PID max value [0-255]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 1020 0 Enable retraction conversion [0/1]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 992 3.000 Retraction length [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1000 40.000 Retraction speed [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1004 0.000 Retraction z-lift [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1008 0.000 Extra extrusion on undo retract [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 1016 20.000 Retraction undo speed
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 200 99.000 Extr.1 steps per mm
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 204 50.000 Extr.1 max. feedrate [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 208 20.000 Extr.1 start feedrate [mm/s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 212 5000.000 Extr.1 acceleration [mm/s^2]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 216 3 Extr.1 heat manager [0-3]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 217 230 Extr.1 PID drive max
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 245 40 Extr.1 PID drive min
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 218 3.0000 Extr.1 PID P-gain/dead-time
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 222 2.0000 Extr.1 PID I-gain
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 226 40.0000 Extr.1 PID D-gain
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 230 255 Extr.1 PID max value [0-255]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:2 231 0 Extr.1 X-offset [steps]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:2 235 0 Extr.1 Y-offset [steps]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:1 239 1 Extr.1 temp. stabilize time [s]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:1 250 150 Extr.1 temp. for retraction when heating [C]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:1 252 0 Extr.1 distance to retract when heating [mm]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:0 254 255 Extr.1 extruder cooler speed [0-255]
< 8:46:44 AM: EPR:3 246 0.000 Extr.1 advance L [0=off]

What slicer do you use? Simplify3D?

I am on Simplify3D as I believe Andrew is as well. Its an amazing program. It also supports your printer as seen here, https://www.simplify3d.com/software/supported-printers/

I dont want to say getting S3D is going to make all the difference but for me its been great and getting help is simple due to a great forum post, https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2367

Id recommend Craig, going through the link above and looking at the write-ups for each tab of Simplify3D. See if what 'Keyboard Warrior' has written makes sense. I think he has done a good job sharing what the settings mean and its been invaluable.

Check out their videos as well to see if they help you to understand it, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQP...VYWZXnQ/videos

If you had S3D it would be easier for us to help you out but its not for everyone.

Thanks. I'll check it out. I finally got printing again, but I still have some peeling layers down the side, and the last couple of layers are drifting again! So frustrating.

Are you able to record video? I wish I knew more about other slicers and printers

You mean like a camera in the printer? I don't have one in mine.

Yes, but thats ok.

Does this benefit you at all Craig? http://jesscoburn.com/archives/2014/...-da-vinci-1-0/

Yes. I've used Jess' settings as a starting point.

At this point, I'm going to recommend S3D as well. Another user, hunterjwizard, had an XYZ printer. He had all kinds of issues that he was able to resolve with switching to Simplify. That said, he did have other hardware issues (unrelated to the software switch) afterward, but switching did make his prints much better. I'm afraid that this may not solve the layer drifting issues, as that is usually hardware related. Did we already mention tightening the belts?

S3D isn't free, but they do have a 14 day return-for-refund policy. This lets you try it to make sure it will work for you.

I adjusted my belts last night and I think I not only solved the drifting (I think), but I also fixed an annoying screeching noise that was coming from the printer.

Now, just to be completely irritating, I've got another issue I've not had before. I've been trying to print this train whistle (again, don't judge) for a friend, but on one side of the print job, the layers aren't bonding, but on the other they are. It's weird because I can see it draw the line, and then it just sort of separates. If I'm lucky, the next pass will sort of glue it together (see the attached image). The other side looks just fine. I leveled the bed, so I don't think it's that. I'm still thinking it's a setting somewhere, but why would it just affect one side. Oh, and that blobby mess at the top is supposed to be a train.

Poor layer adhesion can be from a few things. From the code you pasted, it looks like your temps are 180 for PLA and 230 for ABS? That is toward the bottom of the range for both of these materials. You can adjust the temps up in 5 degree increments until you get better results. The top temps for these are usually 210 for PLA and 250-260 for ABS.

Layer height also matters. A height that is too large won't squish the layers together enough to stick. I like to print most things at .2mm on a .4mm or .5mm nozzle.

As for fixing the "blobby mess," that's usually a cooling issue from being printer too fast. Unfortunately, when your part comes to a point or has very small detail at the very top, this is difficult to avoid. For small parts, there are lots of solutions, but many times I'll just print two at the same time spaced a few inches apart. This forces the printer to move away from the object for a bit as it moves between objects. The results are usually much better.

I've been running ABS at around 240. The temps you are seeing are from the demo file on the SD Card. That's the settings the demo is running.

I tried something different this morning after spending about four hours last night trying to level the bed using XYZ's auto calibration (which truly does suck). I leveled it using the paper trick, but then instead of trying to adjusted the leveling screws to give it more "squish", I used the Z Offset instead. I tested at -1.5 and it was really close; maybe even a bit too much squish. So, tonight I might give it a go again around -1.0.

As far as speeds, I pretty much have it set pretty slow (like 15-20), especially for the first layer. I've heard of other people placing another object near the main model to sort of distract the extruder so the plastic can dry. Someone even mentioned putting an object further out so the carriage has to travel longer, giving it even more time to set.

Here's a pic of the test print I did this morning using the paper leveling and the Z Offset at -1.5

That looks good! I had heard the Da Vinci leveling process is terrible. Paper is a tried and true method. That's what I did with my printrbot (for distance) and then fine tuned it using the z-offset setting.