What's up with this? It was going beautifully until almost the end, then this happened. Any ideas??
Thanks.
(see attached)
Thanks.
(see attached)
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Hi Craig,Originally posted by craigunderhill View Post
Have a look at the quality guide put out by Simplify3D. Hopefully the 'Layer Shifting' section can give you some guidance. Here is the link.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/ -
Thanks. I did look at it earlier. Thanks a lot!
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Did you figure it out? The simplify guide is great! With that much shifting but in only one spot, could be that a belt slipped or a motor binding up. The holes in the top could be due to your infill percent being too low. I like to use 20-25%Comment
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I tried the same model last night again and it didn't shift (I printed it smaller which shouldn't matter). But... When it got to the very top, it was like the hot end was stirring hot pudding or something. It was just smearing the last few layers. UGH! I feel like I'm plugging leaks with my fingers. I put my finger on one, and another one springs up. I tried printing the "Benchy" model last night, and it was a nightmare from the first layer. The letters on the first layer just got dragged around. I readjusted the bed and never could get anything good, so I randomly just tried to print a Batman cookie cutter (hey, it was almost 2 am). It came out pretty good, except for a few random spots where it didn't fill in the sides of the "cutter" very well. It's weird because it perfectly filled most of everything else. I'm on a Da Vinci 1.0, did I mention that? I think I did. This morning it was giving me the buzzing alarm and wouldn't heat. I finally unplugged it for a bit and it worked again when I plugged it back in. What is up with these Da Vinci's? Grrrrr....Comment
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Hi Craig,Originally posted by craigunderhill View Post
The 'puddling' at the top of a print, especially with small features at the top is usually caused by overheating. Not that the nozzle has gone up in temperature, but because the nozzle is moving from layer to layer so fast because of the small features that the previous layer doesn't have time to properly cool. Sometimes this can be taken care of in your slicing software.
What kind of a bed are you printing on? And what is your slicer software.Comment
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I'm using the glass bed on the Da Vinci 1.0. I'm also using Slic3r.Comment
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I guess I never asked what filament type you are using. As for S3D and the heat build up at the top of your print. You may want to use a dual process for the print. https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2089 You'd basically print the bottom and have process 1 stop at a certain height which you'll have to check. Then process 2 will start and you can modify the settings for the top of the print. Most likely slowing the print down and allowing the fan to cool the print as it goes will be the best bet.Originally posted by craigunderhill View PostComment
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I'll check it out. Thank you!Comment
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Oh... I'm using ABS.Comment
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Craig, I would assume you are using some abs slurry to help your prints stick?Originally posted by craigunderhill View Post
I recently had issues getting small details to stick and my PEI sheet lost grip, I had to re-sand. Anyway. Leads me to believe either your print head is moving to fast and/or the bed doesnt have enough 'grip'. What are your first layer settings in S3D. Layer height,width and speed?Comment
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I use a glue stick. No problems there. I have to fight it to come off. I'm actually using Repetier.Comment
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So I've been trying to dial in the settings by printing a bunch of 20mm cubes. Every time it gets to the top layers, I get "Stepper Disabled" and it doesn't finish. All I can think of is maybe for some reason it's getting too hot on the last layers? I'm puzzled. Is there a GCode command for the stepper so I can stop it from turning off? I'm also getting a less than square look to the model. In one of the attached pics, you can see the top right corner is higher than it should be. I turned off retract between layers and I think it helped a little. See attached.Attached FilesComment
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Is the right hand corner where each layer is starting from? If its 'blobbing' on the start of each layer and its in the same spot you may get a raised corner. Unfortunately I am unsure what is causing your stepper disabled error's. Hopefully someone familiar with your printer setup can step in...Comment
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Whelp... The stepper was because I had accidentally removed all the GCode commands in Slic3r. I think that is fixed now.
The corner does seem to be the end of the layer; that's why I turned off retract on layer change.
On another note... I jacked up my extrusion multiplier to 1.3 and suddenly I'm getting pretty decent print jobs. I had been hovering around 1.0, 1.10, 1.15 and wasn't getting very good results. On a whim I got frustrated cranked it up. I also put my extrusion width to auto and I think that made a big difference.
Thanks for the help and support!
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Are you measuring your filament diameter accurately and entering it into your slicing software? I would think with the proper filament diameter you wouldn't need to up the multiplier so high, it may be crutching some other setting that is off. It might come later on as you experiment more.
As for the layer starts, maybe have a look and see if there is a setting in your slicer to have random layer start points. You may also have an option to adjust your retract setting. If it retracts say 3mm as it goes to the next layer you might be able to set the extrude to 2.8mm for instance which would help reduce the 'blob' effect on the new layer.
Another note, I was running 200% width on my infills since S3D came like this and it was fine, I noticed though that after the infill layer and when it went to start a new outline it would leave a blob. I reduced the infill width to 100% (normal extrusion width of the rest of the print) and it fixed the exterior outline blobs. Maybe you are seeing this as well?Comment
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I haven't been actually measuring my filament. What type of caliper would I use? I've never needed one so I have no idea.
There is a retraction setting. I just couldn't figure out the proper formula for getting it right. This totally baffles me. I know you can set the distance to retract, then the amount to start with, so if I had 1.0 as a retraction, and -2 as the restart, it would give me the difference of 1.8, right? I think that's right. Like I said... baffled.
I'll check into your blobs suggestion. I really want to know how to avoid random burn marks. Drives me nuts, and can deform the print.Comment
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You'll want to invest in one of these. [Digital Dial Caliper]Originally posted by craigunderhill View Post
https://www.google.ca/search?q=digit...GiC2wQ_AUIBigB
I don't know that you'd need anything expensive if you are just measuring your filament. Something decent will set you back 20-60$. Depends on what you are comfortable spending. They can come in useful down the road as you do CAD.
What I do for my filament is test ~10 random spots, add up all the tests and divide by how many times I checked. That's the number I will add into the program. Note, the first time you do this you'll probably want to put the multiplier back to 1.0 or whatever it is at normally for ABS.
As for your retraction. If it works like my slicer does. If you have 1.0mm for the retraction and -.2mm as the restart, the extruder would be primed with .8mm before starting. Is there good instructions anywhere for your slicer?
I might have missed your burn mark issues. What are you noticing and do you have a picture of this issue?Comment
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Oh, I just now brought up the burn marks. They are just random. I asked Chuck Hellebuyck who has a YouTube channel, and uses several printers. He said he still hasn't figured it out, either. So, that made me feel a little better.
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This might do the trick. I don't want anything expensive. This is literally the only reason I'll ever need it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...per-93293.htmlComment
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Those should do Craig. Simple, good price! Cant complain. Its important to get the filament measured though as what you enter determines how much filament the printer will push out of the nozzle (Same as your extrusion multiplier) After you measure you normally wont need to touch the EM but sometimes a small change +/- .1-.2 can help.Originally posted by craigunderhill View Post
Feel free to post up a picture about the burn marks you speak of.Comment
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That's a pretty high extrusion multiplier. The default settings for your machine must be off or something. As long as it's working for you, you can call it a fix!
Edit: didn't see all the posts after your extrusion post. Measuring filament is a good idea if you aren't using the default XYZ filament. I have had burn marks on my prints before. In my case, it was from overheated filament that would build up on the nozzle during a print. This build up would burn from sitting directly on the nozzle for a long period of time and then detach every now and then leaving a dark blob/burn mark. Is this what you are talking about? In my case, making sure the nozzle stayed clean at the beginning of the print helped.Last edited by AndrewBougie; 12-03-2015, 10:45 AM.Comment
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Andrew- I'm not using the XYZ filament. I immediately changed the firmware when I got the printer. I hate their inkjet mentality. Obviously they must have seen the light since the new printer is "open filament".
I'll get a caliper as soon as I can and check the filament size. For now things are going pretty good. I do get the occasional burn spot, but even those I consider pros I've talked to still seem to struggle with that.Comment
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Post up a photo when you get a chance Craig on those burn spots. Id be curious to see what they look likeOriginally posted by craigunderhill View PostAndrew- I'm not using the XYZ filament. I immediately changed the firmware when I got the printer. I hate their inkjet mentality. Obviously they must have seen the light since the new printer is "open filament".
I'll get a caliper as soon as I can and check the filament size. For now things are going pretty good. I do get the occasional burn spot, but even those I consider pros I've talked to still seem to struggle with that.
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I will. It's been happening during a print job, and then gets covered up by other layers. If I can get one I'll post it.Comment
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