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Pla/pla+ in pla only printer

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    Pla/pla+ in pla only printer

    Recently got my first 3d printer, Dremel 3d40, really like it, ofc the recommend to use only dremels pla, but I'm going to try other brands anyway.
    from what I understand pla+, esilk pla etc, is just pla, with some additives, to change how strong it is, color, texture etc, now my question is, is it safe to use these other types of pla, in a printer that only prints in pla? Or should I expect more wear on the nozzle, clogging etc?

    #2
    stay away from glow in the dark or iridescent filaments if you are concerned about abrasives causing damage to your nozzle. glow in the dark will definitely destroy a nozzle over time. you can replace the nozzle for $10. iridescent could be anything from anywhere so there is no rule if it is or isn't abrasive, I can't say with confidence that iridescent filament is never abrasive. any PLA will work in any PLA printer. there can be some difference in the glass transition temperature +/-10c. that means if you are at 210c now you will need to experiment to see what gives you the best layer adhesion (stronger parts). if you go too high they will look like a melted snow man. everything will lose shape and slide down. you must match the new filament to the old filament size probably 1.75mm. do not buy 3mm filament. nozzle clogging happens with too much heat. if you switch to a new PLA that melts at lower temp then the result could include clogging. but clogging is usually from too much heat and too much retraction and too much time preheating or idle with heat. only turn the nozzle preheat on when removing filament. never leave nozzle preheat on for 2 minutes. that is where clogs come from. you only want the nozzle hot when you are ready to print. the machine does this automatically.

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      #3
      thanks for the advise, really helpfull since I only had the printer for a few days now
      since my printer only can print with tpa according to dremel, I found some tpa+ that had more flex, since I cant print with tpu, and I want to make a few phone cases

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        #4
        TPU depends on if your printer has a direct extruder or a bowden tube. harder TPU can print in a bowden tube. the print will not look perfect with a bowden tube printer. try it. TPU absorbs a lot of water. you can't have it sitting around for 6 months. that is a whole thing on how to store and dry filament. you can read about that online. I read now that TPA is harder than most TPU. but also I can see that there is a lot of temperature variation between brands of TPA 220c to 330c! if the spool says 240c just walk away. I don't want you to break anything. also, printing TPU through a bowden tube that is how you get clogs. stay there and watch it just in case it clogs you can stop it before the damage is permanent.

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          #5
          thanks for the reply
          If im not wrong, the dremel 3D40 have a direct extruder, so its less risk of clogging with a direct extruder then, so in theory, I could use more or less any filament, that have the right temp range, that my printer can handle then, and that dont need a heated bed, mostly interested in tpu, but would be fun with more options regarding materials

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            #6
            yes exactly. the max temp is limited by the teflon tube inside the hot end. if your hotend cooling fan is small then that can also be a limiting factor. 240c will melt the inner liner of the hotend if it is a teflon tube. your machine will probably lock you out anyway if that is the case. what does the user manual say about max nozzle temp? or does it only have a menu for material PLA, TPA etc..?

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              #7
              max temp is 230c, only pla in the menu, since according to dremel it only prints tpa, so I have to set up the temp, speed etc my self, atleast now I know that Im not limited to only tpa, as long as my printer can handle the temp needed

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