PEI board to help filament stick is terrible, worse than masking tape

[paultechguy]

I purchased a new MP Select Mini 3D printer. It came with the masking tape on the platform. Based on some forum and video help, to assist the filament stick, it seemed like adding PEI to the platform was going to be awesome. Oh may goodness. I added it and it is way more terrible than before. I can print and just watch within 20 seconds the filament most slides off the PEI board and everything is not working. I went back and tried some hairspray and that doesn't help either.

Does anyone else have experience with PEI? Am I doing something wrong with PEI?

Thinking about removing it, but wondering how that 3M adhesive tape is going to be a bear to get the PEI board off.

[paultechguy]

I spent a few hours looking into this. The PEI I purchased at Amazon was not flat, but had a slight bend. When I attached that the the aluminum platform of the MP Select Mini, I actually think the aluminum bent slightly to the same curve as the PEI sheet. This was confirmed when I got a few prints started, but severe warping caused them to quickly break free. I'm thinking glass would be the ultimate way to go now. I performed a miracle and somehow managed to get that PEI board and the 3M adhesive tape off that platform; it took care, and several careful coats of lacquer thinner, and some gentle scraping. Ug...somehow got it all cleaned up.

[jsprenkle@gmail.com]

I have not used PEI. I can tell you about my experience.

If you have poor sticking try aligning the bed closer to the print head for the first layer. If the plastic is hotter when it hits the bed it sticks better.

PLA doesn't need a heated bed that much but it helps.
So far I've tried the kapton sheets and the blue 3m painters tape.
In my case the prints generally stick too well to the bed and both of them tear while trying to get the prints off.


Kapton:
Doesn't tear too badly and lasts through quite a few prints.
I didn't enjoy fixing it so I found myself moving prints around on the bed to avoid the ripped spots

3m blue painters tape:
Works but it's a pain to put on and generally tears on every print.
I get one or two prints before I have to replace it.
Cheaper than kapton.

The purple can of finalnet hairspray works well and needs only one, perhaps two, applications before the bed cover has to be replaced.

The PrintInZ guys produced a stiff plate to put on your printer bed.
You can unclip it and flex it to make the print pop loose. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJg4JSbESK4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAB_nDcmIfA







I have not tried this one but I will be doing so

[Roger3D]

i use a glass bed with stick glue period no heated bed with pla or petg if your print doesn't stick the bed is not level or nozzle is too high blue painters tape will lift off the bed when hot filament lays on it causing a curled up first layer and probably a clicking extruder on second layer

[4runner]

Hi,
I am going to chime in on this issue, I have 2 xyx AIO 1.0 printers. I have had them for the past 3 years. there is a utube video showing how to adjust the extruder to the bed.If you follow the instructions, may be you will have to adjust the bed a couple of times a year,I do not use tape or any of the other crap that is out there, no hairspray etc, Try the utube video, I know that you will be happy with it. I think the video is by Chuck Hellebuyks/ Good Lucl

[Marchie]

I purchased a new MP Select Mini 3D printer. It came with the masking tape on the platform. Based on some forum and video help, to assist the filament stick, it seemed like adding PEI to the platform was going to be awesome. Oh may goodness. I added it and it is way more terrible than before. I can print and just watch within 20 seconds the filament most slides off the PEI board and everything is not working. I went back and tried some hairspray and that doesn't help either.

Does anyone else have experience with PEI? Am I doing something wrong with PEI?

Thinking about removing it, but wondering how that 3M adhesive tape is going to be a bear to get the PEI board off.

Hi, I have been using PEI for over 6 months and have had no problems with it. I used to use Builtak but found it started to split after a few prints. So I ordered 2 sheets of PEI from Amazon US. I contacted 3M and enquired about double sided tape that could withstand 100deg. They gave sent me a free sample and it works great. I have PEI fitted to both of my printers, one one a glass bed and one on aluminium. Both work extremely well. So good infact, that I don't need a raft for any of my ABS prints. It took me a few prints before they started to stick correctly but all I need do, is clean the bed with acetone before printing.

[FreeForm.xyz]

Sorry to ask what may be an obvious question, but are you running a bed heater? If not, that's probably at least partly the issue. PEI (Ultem) works as a bed surface by heating it up. Parts stick when it's warm and pop off when it's cool.

Another question is how thick is the sheet of PEI you purchased? Usually you want 0.02 to 0.04 inches (or 0.5 to 1.0mm).

Also, as you mentioned, make sure the bed is flat and level, and your nozzle height is properly set.

We also occasionally run Wolfbite (by Airwolf3D) on a PEI sheet for materials like ABS. The combo works really well.

Good luck!

Cheers,

Chris

[andysutils]

Kapton tape and a layer of pritstick glue. You will never have bed sticking problems again

[gearsawe]

First off PEI is great when working with PLA or ABS. I know it does not work with Nylon type material. PVA/Glass is best for nylon. if ABS and PLA are not sticking when using a heated bed then I don't think you have been sent a PEI sheet. Also the sheet must be completely clean of oils from your hands from maybe touching it. Second has your filament, has it been sitting exposed to air for a long time? if so does it make pop and crack sounds?

[SaleB]

On suggestion of the seller of my printer I have used hair spray on glass plate mounted on top of my heated bed. The results are good, if you do not mind the smell hair spray produces when sprayed on warm surface. None of my prints ever has broken while removing from the glass plate. When there are layers upon layers of hair spray, when the part is removed on the bottom of the part can be visible tiny lines, but other than that no problem. If you keep the schedule of cleaning the glass with alcohol after any 10th print, there won't be any traces on the bottom layer.

I have never tried any of the other solutions, so I cannot compare, but this one works fine for me.