I have a Max Micron 250 that is finally putting out decent prints. However, it would have been real handy if I would have known that every single nut and bolt on it needed to have threadlocker on it. I basically, at this point, have disassembled most of the printer and employed blue thread locking compound everywhere. Now today, about four hours into a seven hour print, the upper smooth rod on the X axis worked it way out of the left plastic mount, and that was the end of that print. Also the bushings on the extruder that runs on those rods won't stay in place. They work themselves out of their mountings. The problem is, whoever engineered all this, was under the impression a friction fit would be sufficient. Uh....no it is not. My question is can I effectively use some sort of glue to hold these metal parts to the 3D printed parts? If so, what type would be most effective? I'm sure many people have these sorts of issues with new printers, so what is the best way of dealing with it? Thanks.
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Quite honestly I think the best course of action would probably be to print some new pieces with modifications to fix the issues caused by the design.
I'm not sure if there are files that already exist or not for your printer but hopefully someone will be along soon to help with that.
Take a look on thingiverse to see if someone has already redesigned those parts.
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Can you easily modify for bearing like this? http://www.amazon.com/SCS8UU-Linear-...ilpage_o09_s00. These are the bearings I use printer.
Also Check out http://www.loctite.com/ I have used their stuff before as a sealant on threads, it sealed well against Helium so it is very tight, and we use a different one on threads at work, it is an absolute pain to unscrew. I remember they had something for a metal to plastic bond but I am unsure on the number for it.
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Discovered the cause
When I do long prints, since I have the printer in an enclosure, the X axis linear bearing holder either gets soft from the heat or gets pliable. Yesterday one of the bearings popped out. I pushed it back in and it just shot right out on the next pass. It felt like it wasn't even touching the mount. I glued it back in. If I ever replace that part. I'll just put new bearings in it. Obviously Max Micron didn't do any testing on this design before selling them. There's several problems that I'm having to reengineer because they didn't get the design right. Has this been the case with other Prusa i3 types?
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No disrespect intended, but you are not going to get satisfactory results
as long as you have a 3d printer that uses plastic mounts to hold metal parts.
The metal to plastic union will not hold up under the thousands of cycles
of multi-directional stress.
Stainless rods with aluminum mounts yes, plastic no.
My suggestion would be a different 3D Printer.
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Originally posted by smskeeter23 View PostQuite honestly I think the best course of action would probably be to print some new pieces with modifications to fix the issues caused by the design.
I'm not sure if there are files that already exist or not for your printer but hopefully someone will be along soon to help with that.
Take a look on thingiverse to see if someone has already redesigned those parts.
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Originally posted by OMENDOG View PostNo disrespect intended, but you are not going to get satisfactory results
as long as you have a 3d printer that uses plastic mounts to hold metal parts.
The metal to plastic union will not hold up under the thousands of cycles
of multi-directional stress.
Stainless rods with aluminum mounts yes, plastic no.
My suggestion would be a different 3D Printer.
It IS possible.
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I agree with smskeeter23, though I believe he has made some extensive modifications to his machine. With the proper tuning and sometimes some better designed parts (Thingiverse or DIY), there are plenty of printers with mostly printed brackets that produce great results.
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Thanks for the input guys. I have discovered the hard way that 3D printed parts expand and shrink in the hot environment of being in a 3D printer and bearing blocks get loose, even when torqued to the correct spec, and using threadlocker compound. After removing my hotbed three times to tighten those 3mm machine screws, I surrendered to ordering aluminum linear bearing blocks, and I'm converting the X axis carriage assembly as well. What I don't understand is why manufacturers don't do this from square one. Any money saved by using poorly designed parts, only serves to screw your reputation in the retail community. Are you listening Max Micron? Any additional costs incurred by using metal parts could be passed on to the consumer. Five SC8UU linear bearing blocks would have added less than $10.00 to the cost of the kit. I would have paid the difference, and wouldn't be here in this forum to complain that Max Micron sells an inferior product. But hey this is a hobby after all, and I'm grateful to be able to have open sourced designs to diy. Even with these inferior parts, during the short time they stay cinched up, the printer prints beautifully. And part of this endeavor was to learn new skills and technology. After being a hardware tech in the computer industry for over 35 years, you can teach an old dog new tricks. I'm really enjoying taking my Rube Goldberg designs, drawing them up, and actually making them. I designed the 3D parts for this autogyro that I made from Dollar Tree foamboard.
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