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    At 114mm x 114mm that product isn't large enough.

    I'm getting great results with tape on lexan, the plates are easy to make and cheap, and getting the builds off isn't bad. Replacing the TAPE, however, is tedious and annoying. I'm currently trialing different methods that don't involve me doing a ton of work. I hear mineral spirits work, but warm water is also supposed to be tape's natural enemy.

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      From the BuildTak Website...

      Dimensions inches (mm)
      4.5″ x 4.5″ (114*114), 6.5″ x 6.5″ (165*165), 6.5″ Diameter (165Dia), 5.83″ x 7.95″ (202*148), 8″ x 8″ (203*203), 8″ Diameter (203DIA), 6.25″ x 9.25″ (159*235), 6.5″ x 10″ (165*254), 6.5″ x 11.5″ (165*292), 8″ x 10″ (203*254), 9″ x 10″ (228*254), 10″ x 10″ (254*254), 12″ x 12″ (304*304), 12″ Diameter (304Dia), 16″ x 16″ (406*406)

      http://www.buildtak.com/product/buil...build-surface/

      Yes I am that bored at work today.

      Also found on Amazon and a few other places

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        I WISH I were that bored :P

        So far the lexan covered in what looks like scotch tape seems to be giving the best results. I'm still trialing different methods for unsticking the tape, but a lengthy warm water soak made pulling the tape off easier. I am also going to experiment with mineral spirits.

        Printing direct to the lexan is good, but getting the bottom layer off is a challenge. The bottom adhears to the lexan more strongly than it does to the second layer of build. I'm having good luck with a razor and metal pain scraper, but it still involves a fair amount of force.

        I don't like anything that unpredictable. I like zero-force things. Its not pleasant to have to jam a scraper under something and then push until it flys off at a random time. I'm wondering if I can use acetone to loosen things up. Not sure how well this would work, but say the build plate had dozens of tiny holes. Too small for ABS to drip through, but let a little acetone through and the device just lets go.

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          Well, we're back to bed-sticking problems. Now, this is not the fault of the printer, just like Unicorns, the Tooth Fairy, and girls who think 3d printer enthusiasts are hot, printers without bed sticking issues are fantasy.

          Ambient temperature may be part of my issue. I can also see that at least a few of my "sticking" failures are the work of poor design. A raft or brim would help if I had space, I'm also sort of wishing for that magnetic plate, now :P I'm considering building a ghetto version to get me through a few tough prints. My printer can go right to the edge of the board, which means its easily capable of running right into my binder clips on some of my bigger pieces :P

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            Can you oversize the plate, then put a counter-sunk screw that is flush with the print surface. On the other side, not the printing side, install a printed latch that is turned by the screw above and locked the build plate 2.0 on the original build plate/heated bed 1.0. I am sure you have a way, and the know how to design these Mr. Mulk Mush.

            Project engineer by trade, I like to problem solve mechanical s**t.

            EDIT: Would also be a great cheap way to increase the print bed size as much as possible.

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              I agree with wellsmic on over sizing your platform if possible. If you could clamp a few steel brackets onto your original platform, that could allow you to superglue/weld/use your laser vision to attach magnets to the bottom of your new platform. My magnets are countersunk into the build plate and work quite well. You may need to add a groove or lip to the bottom side of your plate to keep it from sliding around on the x/y axis.

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                I have an idea, but it will involve a little inventiveness.

                @wellsmic, maybe you can help. What I need is effectively one-half of a binder clip that can be attached only to the under-side of the board. I'm struggling to explain it, when I have time with a graphics program I'll sketch what I want.

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                  Sorry all I have access to right now is ACAD but here is a quick 2D of what i was thinking about. I only did 1 clamp, I would guess you would have 4 or 8, 1 or 2 per side.
                  Attached Files

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                    The problem with that design is I don't think it would be secure enough. The build plate needs to not move at all, and I don't know if it'd be possible to produce something like that and have it be tight enough.

                    I was thinking something like the binder clip where it applies pressure to the bottom of the plate. I've some ideas, I may buy a bunch of binder clips and some glue and start experimenting. Going to need some strong glue.

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                      Then curve the flat seat for the build plate slightly, also make the top point of the curve to the new larger build plate distance be 0.15mm (0.006") less than the thickness of the old build plate. This would make a secure latch with easy on/off due to the 2 curves at the points of contact.

                      Could also do vertical latches that just barely go above the new build plate. Use the old plate leveling locations as the anchor locations. Would still be able to level.

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                        I'm currently looking at the same Wanhao you bought. What are you feelings on it now that you've had it a while?

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                          It was a good buy. Solid machine in all the right places. The only issues I have encountered so far are the same sort of general problems everyone operating a 3D printer encounters. The machine has a very tough "all go and no quite" attitude that sometimes works against it but generally comes out on top.

                          My main recomendation for you is to get/make a good stack of lexan build plates. The removable build plate concept is tops, but I found I really did not like the included glass plate. You ca read about it in one of my other threads, but basically I bought a few sheets of Lexan from Home Depot and cut them up to make 14 build plates. So far I've only ruined 2(total value: about 3 bucks each). The lexan combined with scotch taand glue has been the best combination of tiiicking/freeing that I've found.

                          My other recommendation is to invest in a copy of Simplify 3D. The Wanhao "comes with" some kinda chincy open source software which you do need for the drivers//installation, but as far as printing software its not great. I say "comes with" in sarcastic air quotes because they actually direct you to an external site for download.

                          Make no mistake: it is a GREAAAT machine. Setup is just a bit tricky owing mostly to the magestic engrish in their documentation. BUT, product support is done by native english speakers so if you do ht issues there's that. If you read through this thread I was pretty good at documenting all the issues I ran into.

                          I'd also definitely take the 4S over the 4x. The all metal construction is really solid. This machine is a hammer, I expect mine to work for many years. My duty cycle so far has also been pretty robust, I've gone through many rolls of fillament and only printed a few arrant lumps. Again: main issues are shoddyyyyyyy instructions and typical 3D printer problems, main advantages are simple, robust design on a still feature-rich device.

                          I'm actually planning to write a more innn-depth review at some point. I've always felt like most of the reviews online were bad as they were mostly by people who'd owned the printer for "an afternoon".

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                            If you want a cheap 3D printer with dual extruder, the MAX MICRON - R8 aluminum frame dual head 3D printer is probably the best option. It offers a great functioning and is even a comparatively cheaper alternative to other dual head 3D printers.

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