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witch linear rails for 3 d printer

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    witch linear rails for 3 d printer

    Hy everyone.

    I need to buy linear rails for 3 d printer. And i dont find enything useful on the internet. What kind of linear rails is used for this purpose. I am specialy interested in details like. What kind of preloding is it the best. Cetus has some stainles steel linear rails witch are self lubrecating. What this mean self lubrecating,... i didnt see eny central oil lubrication system on this 3 d printer.
    I woud ask sombady witch is more nolagable as i am for answers. The question witch i have is if the rails are preloaded what this mean for the motor. and then how to make stepper motor run silent and smoth with what kind of 3d printer controler. Thank you wery mutch for answers.

    looks like an oil saturated polymer. I never heard of this used in this application. I have heard of it in plastic gears that have lubricant mixed into the plastic.

    however, that is probably not as common as the other self lubricating bearing which is %100 dry. igus makes drylin. you use that with 8mm round rods designed for linear motion. hardened is better. chrome plated is better than steel. stainless is also good. regular steel is bad because you are fighting corrosion. I think if you get genuine hiwin rails, you have a high end system. you do need more precision when installing and aligning them or else it will not be of any benefit. the drylin option with round rods from china chrome plated is definitely cheaper. don't be afraid to learn how to completely disassemble a hiwin carriage for lubrication maintenance. this is even more important if you buy fake hiwins for half price. lube and alignment is what can make or break the whole thing.


      I have contakted company igus, but they dont respond, this i have stated to ofical representative on public fair.

      I am planing to build custom 3 d printer from scrach becose i figure out that this shaky aluminium extrusion have some problems if you wont to run 3d printer fast becose of vibration. I plan to custom cut a 15 mm or 20 mm thick plate of steel or stainles steel on laser machine. Then i wil take the plate to local company to grind it so i have realy flat surface. i will not mill gruves in it like proper cnc mil or lathe. Then i will position the rails with microclook and so on so i get parallism and sqernes and so on.

      Problem i have is witch brand to take. i will not incorporate central lubrication system, but some lubrication shoud be nice so self lubrication is new to me. I have seen how real self lubrication work on cnc centers, but some grese in cariage for self lubrication. i dont now.

      Hiwin brand has a lot of copies. If i buy in europe they are pricey but stil i dont now if i bought original hiwin.
      A lot of clones or chinase brands are sold in europe as top shit stuf,... i begin to puke abotu this....
      Retrox rails are the best, but if you dont want to sell your liver it a problem.
      IMO brand sems ok
      misumi vs hiwin is beter

      As preload is concerned, it can be a big problem witch depends from your mechanical set up. From 1 to 3 % is good for precision. If rails are not positioned acuratly, the preload can damege your rails and cariages.

      So i stil havent concluded witch brand to take.

      I am planing to build closed rigid rig on witch i can put linear rails so i can push higher speeds with no vibrations or higher speeds without problems in print.

      I am stil interested to now, one more thing. Where is the border of preload when begin to stick to rail and this is causing vibration when steper canges direction and this is seen on the printable job. Biger preload biger friction. I think some preload is beneficial buit no preload can be worse.

      This is my 5 cents.


        engineering is about compromise. the price is somewhere between 0 and INF. same with stiffness vs lightness. if you want inf stiffness and inf light weight you need inf money. so if you have a budget < $1000 then you should look at IMO or misumi. they are better then garbage but almost as good as hiwin. you need to clean and lubricate everything yourself before you use it. I think now would be a good time to post your design for the machine. you need to decide if it is cartesian, delta, corexy. you need to decide if the bed moves in the Z or in the X (X same as Y). the railcore has the bed moving in the Z with 3 pivot points for bed leveling. the railcore is corexy. the e3d toolchanger has a lighter gantry but the rigidity is poor for high speed printing. you can see ringing on the parts. they fix it in software because the duet board has fundamental frequency dampening built in to the stepper motor control algorithm. the carbon fiber crossmember in the e3d toolchanger is not really the best for matching thermal expansion coefficient of the steel rails. even if it has a bow in the carbon fiber to preload the rails, that preload will change with temperature. the faster you go, the more strength you need in every load bearing part. more strength = more weight. more weight = bigger motors. you may end up with a $10,000 CNC if you pursue something better. the best DIY I have seen is with a glass reinforced concrete structure. you will be building a hybrid since you only want the frame to be heavy. you want all the moving parts to be light and stiff. you probably will end up with servos instead of steppers since your level of precision requires closed loop motor control systems. you can buy a 3d printer built by professionals, or you can spend an insane amount of money and time doing it yourself. can I ask why you want to spend so much money for fast & precise 3d printing? you can get better results with a farm full of the prusa mini printing at normal speed. they scale well. they have a printer farm management web interface that makes it easy and efficient to print a lot of parts in a short period of time.

        what will the parts be used for? is this just for fun? do you have actual specifications that you require for your parts? why is print speed in your specifications? very few jobs actually require print speed at 200mm/s with high precision.

        from my perspective, you have never built a 3d printer before but you want the best in all areas. you also said that you can't sell your liver. you need to either adjust your expectations lower or you need to sell your liver. it would be a good learning experience for you to buy an ender 3. you can start with that. then upgrade it where your money spent makes the biggest improvement to the speed and quality of the ender 3. what you learn from that will be real world experience. this is what you need first before you spend a lot of money building something with zero experience.