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Flashforge Dreamer Expansion to A4/320220 bed

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    Flashforge Dreamer Expansion to A4/320220 bed

    I got 4 Dreamers, 3 have logged over 2000 print hours, the other 2500 hours in the last several years..
    One build plate died a week ago, so I replaced it with a 320x220 rubber heat mat & glass plate, 3 printed feet to fix to the original mounting locations, the addition of a solid state relay to switch the 220v mat... hooked to the 24v bed output to switch the relay & a thermocouple under the mat.... and YAY a decent sized build platform now.

    The extruders are fed from above not the side so filament & wires dont foul the machine case as before, & I drew and A4 perimeter STL with diagonal lines to center on the flashprint software bed, set up the larger work pieces & then delete the A4 STL file leaving the work only to print...

    works like a charm & opens up a dreamer into a new class of machine...

    Hope this sparks some interest.

    Hi Grant, sounds like a fun upgrade. Did you need to modify the rails to give full coverage of your improved build area?


      No, not at all.
      i will load some pictures shortly.... see attached. I had to make a 10mm stand off to limit the vertical travel of the bed - the part that sits between the rear rails & contacts the micro-switch

      I did need to move the power cables feeding the extruder to come in vertically on the extruder carriage, instead of from the side. The print bed is slightly off-set from centralized, to get maximum coverage of the extruder nozzle.
      Note, the whole A4 bed cannot be used, just most of it, due to mechanical limitations of the printer.
      Flashprint is also dumb enough to allow you to print into thin air also.

      I drew up a STL border that shows me the mechanical print border limits, and load it on to the print bed 1st, then import the parts I want to print... finally I delete the border before saving the G-file, & that way the printer will not mechanically crash the carriage into the case.
      Finally, you need to have a 2nd glass sheet to remove & clean when needed, as the new heat mat is 220 volts & I dont want to slop water in there & get fried.
      The 220v mat is coupled to the system with a pair of SSR - Solid State Relays - one for each side of the bed power cable, & these are activated by the original 24v bed power from the mother board... the thermocouple pre-fitted to the heat mat is hooked up the the motherboard, but is polarity sensitive. works a treat.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by GrantB; 10-10-2018, 12:00 PM.


        I just loaded a whole bunch of pictures & a detailed explanation, but it has been pulled down as some sort of Spam - will reload the pics below.
        Attached Files


          cool that looks like an easy(ish) way to get a whole lot more print area. Thanks for sharing.
          I had a look at my FFCP and it looks like i'd get about a 40-60 mm improvement in width (X) but nothing in Y. Did you try without modification of the heat bed? I'm wondering if conduction be sufficient to heat the 'usable area' of your massive bed without the high VAC components (simply a drop in plate upgrade).
          I just saw that the heating element is 750W, wow whats that take like <30 seconds to get to temperature?


            yes, it doesnt take long top get up to temp... AND the bed is 220v AC, & thereby leaves ALL the 24 volts available for the hot end, motors & display & the extruder fans don't change their tone as things move or heat up any more.
            Note, the whole heat bed cannot be used due to internal mechanical limitations of the case size (just most of it), but I removed the centrifugal fan & mount from the Left side of the carriage & fed the wiring in from above, rather than the side & gained more movement again.
            The K-type thermocouple on the mat works correctly with the Motherboard, but is polarity sensitive. The 24volt power outputs for the bed heating from motherboard activate the TWO SSR - Solid-State-Relays.
            I used one for each pole of the heat mat.... specifically, as other wise, even with the machine idle, the bed could be live on one pole & risky of tinkering about under the machine any time.... & i like my fingers pink, not char-grilled & Smoking..

            I wrote a STL file which had a boder of the original bed & off set the limitations of new printable size to a secondary border.
            This way, I drop the new border STL on each new print ... then the work-piece & when finalized I delete the border & print the part.... Simples.

            It gains 40mm on Right, 30mm left & 15mm on each front & rear.


              Thanks for sharing, best thread I've seen on here in a long while. The relay explanation was helpful. I use my side mounted fan when printing small objects in abs on the right extruder, but I assume you would just use one of your other printers for that and reserve the big one for larger jobs.


                The side mount fan can be relocated above the extruder.
                on all my Dreamers, I removed the Left extruder motor, printed a fake to fill the space & took 1/3 Kilo of the X Carriage whivh meant I could print faster up to 90mms with similar accuracy as previously, due to not hauling the dead weight about. Ive had the Dreamers for 3 yrs & NEVER needed to use both extruders... ever.


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