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New to 3D printing need help with picking first printer. Monoprice Maker Select Plus?

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    #26
    Originally posted by dongray55 View Post
    MidWest you might find like I did that ABS is not so hot to use. It has lots of drawbacks. When ABS and PLA were the main choices, ABS often won in part toughness and temperature tolerance. And you are right that you really need to enclose larger ABS prints to make them print well. Also it tends to smell bad as it is heated and the fumes are not good for you. Depending on the manufacturer, it will tend to stink up a room pretty quickly. So that might be a good reason to have your printer placed in a work room or something where you won't get chewed out by your coresidents for it's odor.

    I have been trying PETG and some other materials that have the easy print features and is much tougher than PLA and doesn't melt at lower temps. Also several other filament makers make stronger high temp plastics now that rival ABS and don't have it's strong smell or need to curl up on the sides and edges. I'm now using PETG for parts and things that need the durability of ABS. But because it costs a bit more, I tend to use plain PLA for figurines or decorative prints to save money. Unless your project must be in ABS, you might find easier materials to print that fit your needs. Of course learning to print is best done with PLA. There's fewer errors that are material based and you are primarily learning to dial in your settings faster. If you start with higher temp materials it is a bit more difficult to learn where a print went wrong unless you are sure you will always use that material. I found PLA was stable enough for most of my prints.

    While my printer said it supported temps up to 260 degrees, it really didn't well. I tried several types of higher temp filaments and I noticed the hot end really was cooking the PTFE tube that fed the filament. I did have some clogging issues at first after upgrading to the Micro Swiss all metal hot end. But like most changes to 3D prints I eventually learned to dial in the settings changes for that hot end. It did make my high temp plastic prints work and print much better and there is no PTFE tube to fry. Just have to be careful not to clog the all metal ones. A few printers come with an all metal hot end already installed. That's a good way to start as you won't have to learn one hot end then change a bunch of settings to match a new upgraded one. Most will have an upgrade path if not. What you might do is try ABS and see if you have issues. Then try PETG or any specialty filament. There are now lots of alternatives to ABS that give the benefits of it without the pitfalls. Also if you want to print flexible filament you may have to have a better extruder than what comes standard. Your printer models all have their preferred upgrades for extruders. Flexible filament is not something you want to start with. Till you gain proficiency with either PLA or ABS at least. Nylon and carbon fiber are also interesting to try when you have an all metal hot end. I'm still experimenting and learning that myself. I've found Nylon great for gears and moveable parts that need to be tough. I'm finding the carbon fiber stuff to be extremely tough once printed and I am loving the prints it produces. But it is expensive enough that I can't afford to use it everywhere. Also I completely wore out a good nozzle after 3 kg of carbon fiber was printed. So anyway you can see you have choices.

    Oh and also if you like auto bed leveling read the fine print carefully. A few manufacturers consider auto bed leveling to mean just moving the print head around while you manually adjust things from a thumbwheel. Some printers still require you to do a manual leveling occasionally and it's just fine tuning that with the auto leveling.

    Also the type of auto bed leveling your printer uses can effect the material you use for your print bed later. Auto levelers that really do the job for you can have sensors that are mechanical, or inductive, or capacitive, or optical. Which type of leveling it has determines the material it can see. So for instance you might not be able to use a glass plate bed later if your leveler is optical. Mechanical sensors can be slow and innaccurate but reliable if read slowly. Leveling sensors should be run slowly between prints. It's a proven fact that if you level too quickly the values can be way off depending on type. On some beds whether they are heated or not at the time of the reading also makes a big difference.

    Sometimes taking the 2-3 minutes to manually adjust bed leveling gives better looking prints than auto bed leveling does. While it can seem annoying to do for the beginner, after a wile you'll get to where you can quickly do it manually too. The big difference in how often you have to do it is dependant on so many factors that everyone has different results. Sometime even having to roughly pry a print off the bed can effect it's leveling. The cheaper printers also often come with thin bottom bed plates (not the heated one but the one that sits on). These thin plates can actually bend and warp over time. One of the mods that is often at the top of the list for some printer owners is to replace that bottom plate with a sturdier or thicker one. I know on my printer, I used to have to relevel the bed after every print. After replacing the bed with a better one, I now only have to do it every 4 or 5 prints or when one was tough to pull off the bed.

    And just so you know, stringing issues are almost always caused by print settings not being dialed in well. Usually a combo of temps used and print speed and extraction settings. Stringiness is almost always fixable via settings although it might take you several prints to get it dialed in just right. This is one of those places where you want to have a calibration or torture test print that doesn't take long. That way you can see the error, stop the print, change some settings, clear the bed and print a new one again until you figure out what causes it.
    Hey hey, I Donnelly have an update. I went with the open box maker select plus when they took an extra$25 off. I got that this last Friday and set it up on Saturday night. I have only printed two files from the samples on the SD card. I am getting some files setup in cura 2.6.2 to start printing things other than three samples. Going to see how that goes!

    Thanks again for talking with me about all this and getting me going here! Greatly appreciated!!

    Trying to get some pics of the test prints but I need to resize my images real quick!

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      #27

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        #28
        I was also facing same issue, thanks for this thread. Do you have the curiosity to know about the best 3d printer under 300 $ to buy in 2019? then check out out post.. https://technicalustad.com/best-3d-printer-under-300/
        Last edited by manpreet.09; 01-06-2019, 06:50 PM.

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