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    hello at all

    hello at all, I must to buy a dual extruder 3d printer to print complex components that require soluble supports in ABS and ASA, so i need it to also reach high extrusion temperatures, which do you recommend between Qidi Tech X-Pro, Flashforge Creator Pro and Wanhao D4S?

    #2
    I would suggest that you avoid dual extrusion or get a really high quality dual extrusion machine. it would be cheaper to print ASA with ASA support. then you cut the support off with tools. if you want multi material then you should also say what your budget is. if you get a cheap multi material printer, you will regret it. I can print ASA on an ender 3 if I upgrade the hotend and the bed heater only. you throw a garbage bag over the printer to raise the air temperature. yes it is a cheap 3d printer but for $260 total investment, I am already printing ASA.

    https://www.matterhackers.com/articl...h-asa-filament

    my opinion on cheap high end printers is that they lack the years of development, or the level of support that you would get from one of the more well known companies. this is why I will not tell you to buy something cheap unless it is really really cheap. in the middle is where I have a problem. if you spend $1000 but it breaks and the company is not responding to emails then haha too bad that sucks lesson learned. there is a reason that the good machines are more expensive. these are used in schools, by engineers, architects, product designers, rapid prototyping, mold making etc.. these are businesses that need something that just works. if they have a problem, they get it solved %100 of the time with very little down time.

    $3500
    https://ultimaker.com/3d-printers/ultimaker-3

    $3999
    https://www.raise3d.com/pro2/

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      #3
      thanks for the answer, I have a budget of 1,000 euros (around $ 1,150). I absolutely need the possibility of creating HIPS supports because they are quite complex projects. I have already tried to test with my other printer (Alfawise U30 Pro) using PETG, but with poor results, the supports or after printing were impossible to remove or did not support the structure.

      Comment


        #4
        can I also ask you what upgrades you made into your Ender 3 hotend and the bed heater to be able to print ASA?

        Comment


          #5
          I read the manual to the Wanhao D4S. max temp is 230c. NO ASA
          I checked the specs on the Flashforge Creator Pro 240c NO ASA
          I went to the official website for Qidi Tech X-Pro, the product page is blank. the amazon reviewer said the specification from the manufacturer is PLA or ABS ONLY

          it does not have a full metal hotend therefor it can not print high temperature engineering materials. you should get a prusa i3 MK3 with a pallete 2S. $1000 + $600 + raspberry pi $60.

          the only other way would be to build it yourself. this could take a year to design and test. you can get a kit to build a prusa clone for $500. then you can get the pallet 2S to add multi-material capability. this is not as easy as buying an ultimaker or raised 3d but if you want to put a lot of time into it then you could maybe be successful.

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            #6
            I have a cheap clone of the microswiss full metal hotend ordered already. just waiting 30 days for shipping from china. this cost me $10. the bed heater that comes stock is 24V DC. not sure how many watts it is but I can promise you it sucks if you want to get to 100c on the bed. if you want 120c on the bed then it will probably never start printing. I have a left over solid state relay from another project. it was a reflow oven for manufacturing electronics. the kit has 3 relays but I only used 2 of them. so I have the relay for free, I need to buy a bed heater for my country 110V AC. the wattage should be about 360 to 500watts. this will allow the bed to heat up fast to 120c the same as when a stock ender 3 heats to 60c for PLA. I have not ordered the heating pad yet but I did fine one for $20 on aliexpress. this mod requires me to change the firmware on the stock control board of the ender 3. I also need to solder a pin for GPIO to control the solid state relay 5v control line. then I need to modify some code in the firmware, recompile the firmware, flash the firmware. this would be easier for a beginner to do if you also swap the mainboard to a duet 2. they have a web interface for changing settings. there are extra pins on the duet 2 board that allow you to add some 5v device without soldering any wires yourself. SKR 1.3 or ramps would be cheaper than a duet 2 but you will need to be an expert in recompiling and flashing firmware. at least you don't need to solder wires to the SKR or ramps boards.

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              #7
              thanks for the detailed explanation, I found here the specifications of the Qidi X-Pro (I'm at the bottom of the page):
              https://all3dp.com/1/qidi-tech-x-pro...printer-specs/
              max temp 250

              Comment


                #8
                max tamp 250
                max bed temp 120
                can print ASA?
                Actually I was already evaluating Prusa MK3S + MMU2S, but I had rejected it because I don't know the reliability of the MMU2S system and because it was open. Doing research on the internet I saw that Josef Prusa himself recommends 2 methods to close his printer, one is the self-construction of the closure and the other is to use a photo studio tent, could the photo studio tent work well?

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                  #9
                  max temp of 250 means it has a PTFE tube inside the hotend. if it has a tube inside the hotend that that means the max temp is actually 240c. this is why I don't like Qidi. they are stretching the truth to sell you something that is made as cheap as possible. you can compare two identical machines with PTFE liners and one will cheat the specs to win the sale. if they are dishonest before the sale you can expect them to be dishonest after the sale.

                  the prusa has an full metal hotend with direct extrusion. this is the best you can get. the MMU2S is cheap used. I think people are selling them off to buy the palette 2S pro. the MMU2S is an older machine. the software setup will be easy because prusa slicer. but you may have better results with the palette 2S pro since that has all the latest improvements in the design of the mechanism that fuses the filaments together. it is in fact a better machine.

                  you may want to try PVA instead of HIPS. it is cheaper. you have to keep the PVA dry though. that may be more expense to setup a filament dry box or an oven.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    thank you very much for all the advice it will mean that I will wait a little longer to have a higher budget and be able to buy a more professional product.

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