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    Hi from the US

    Hi. I'm new to this forum and to 3d printing. I recently bought Creality Ender 3 and am waiting on the BLA kit.

    So far, it's been relatively smooth sailing. I've been having some bed adhesion problems at certain parts of the day, like early morning and evening, but it looks like bumping the bed temperature to 70c for the first row or so seems to be helping.

    They seem to have fixed a lot of the minor problems that I was seeing in some of the review videos. For example, the boden tube came with a nice clip to hold things in place and mine had neither a warped bed nor any noticeable wobbling..

    #2
    check out Noob failing post

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      #3
      Originally posted by Roger3D View Post
      check out Noob failing post
      Thanks, that's quite helpful. I've considered switching to glass, but I'd like to put that off a bit until I get used to the rest of it.Right now, I'm using the stock removable mat, which had been working, but now it's getting rather flaky.

      Gluesticks might well be the answer here as it's not consistently sticking when I do the skirt or the brim.

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        #4
        you do both skirt and brim as far as glass you get a piece the same size as bed about 1/4 " thick and just use binder clips from a dollar store to hold on top of the bed no mods necessary

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          #5
          Originally posted by Roger3D View Post
          you do both skirt and brim as far as glass you get a piece the same size as bed about 1/4 " thick and just use binder clips from a dollar store to hold on top of the bed no mods necessary
          I'm going to get some glass.

          I get the sense that the issue here is that I don't have the height dialed in quite correctly, the nozzle is too far off the surface and I'm having issues getting it close enough to lay down properly.The bead looks nearly completely round and additional layers seem to just smudge it more than anything. Not sure why it wasn't an issue the first dozen or so prints I've done. But, I'm going to try getting it closer to the bed and see if that solves my problem.

          I'm also going to update the firmware, so hopefully, it will behave a bit better.

          EDIT: I decided to go with essentially pyrex rather than glass. If my mother's casserole dish is any indication, it should be quite durable.
          Last edited by pfrank; 01-02-2019, 03:36 PM.

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            #6
            For future reference, it looks like after the first couple days that my print pad started to sag just enough in the middle that that area wasn't sticking properly. I've put one piece of tape down and that's helped, but it looks like one more piece should do the trick.

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              #7
              Pyrex is actually the ideal glass what I want to get is polished porcelain floor tile. A glass plate overcomes the warping of aluminum and is a lot flatter. As I said you use binder clips to hold the glass to the metal bed. What your gonna find with tape is it will lift up and cause curling and leaves a pattern on the print. When you do start using a glass bed you will never use tape again. It takes a couple weeks for a new printer to break in and you will find it gets better over time just keep belts tight and rods lubricated. Anyhow happy printing.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Roger3D View Post
                Pyrex is actually the ideal glass what I want to get is polished porcelain floor tile. A glass plate overcomes the warping of aluminum and is a lot flatter. As I said you use binder clips to hold the glass to the metal bed. What your gonna find with tape is it will lift up and cause curling and leaves a pattern on the print. When you do start using a glass bed you will never use tape again. It takes a couple weeks for a new printer to break in and you will find it gets better over time just keep belts tight and rods lubricated. Anyhow happy printing.
                Thanks a lot. The plate is scheduled to arrive here on Saturday, so hopefully, I'll be able to start using it then. It's kind of crazy how tight these tolerances are. I couldn't see the gap in the middle, although in retrospect, I should have used a flashlight to see if any light was visible under my straight edge. A couple layers of tape is not very much.

                But, since I did that, I haven't had any prints failing, so hopefully it's fixed until the plate comes. And hopefully with the additional weight from the plate, I won't have any sort of uneven drooping or warping in the future either.

                Comment


                  #9
                  The gap between the nozzle and the bed should be only 0.1mm that is the thickness of a sheet of paper. It should be that in all corners and in the middle. Metal beds tend to warp esp when heated. Occasionally flip the glass and print on other side. Elmers Glue Stick works best helps it stick to glass and use a Brim on all prints. It is not necessary to clean the glass between prints just a scrape to remove debris and make surface smooth. If you print with PLA it is not necessary to use the heated bed. Another good tool to own is digital vernier calipers to measure filament diameter and part sizes. If sizes are off it will be necessary to calibrate the steppers.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Roger3D View Post
                    The gap between the nozzle and the bed should be only 0.1mm that is the thickness of a sheet of paper. It should be that in all corners and in the middle. Metal beds tend to warp esp when heated. Occasionally flip the glass and print on other side. Elmers Glue Stick works best helps it stick to glass and use a Brim on all prints. It is not necessary to clean the glass between prints just a scrape to remove debris and make surface smooth. If you print with PLA it is not necessary to use the heated bed. Another good tool to own is digital vernier calipers to measure filament diameter and part sizes. If sizes are off it will be necessary to calibrate the steppers.
                    Thanks a lot, the pyrex came today, and I'm getting better at getting the bed leveled. It hadn't occurred to me to flip it over occasionally, but it makes complete sense. I've already got a caliper, so I'll give that a go and see if anything weird shows up.

                    I'm also getting better at identifying when the correct amount of distance is there and when I need to lower, raise things.

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                      #11
                      I actually use just plain window glass. 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick. It is cheap and I have never had one break. Heated beds heat fairly evenly and it is temp difference that breaks the glass, not the temp itself. I keep a few on hand, some with kapton tape on them and some just plain glass. I like to print on glass, sometimes I paint on a thin layer of abs melted in acetone to help adhesion, and if that doesn't work, I go to the kapton and even kapton with abs solution.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hello All. New to the 3D game but gaining speed at a pretty good pace. I am having one problem so far though. I am printing a replacement knob for my car stereo. I have made my part in Sketchup Pro. The part looks fine. Exported it as an .obj file and then imported it into the Dremel 3D Slicer program (relabeled Cura) the part will print the outside of the part but will not print the inside which is the opening for the shaft to be inserted into. Any ideas?
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