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Ender 3 Pro - proper assembly instructions

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    Ender 3 Pro - proper assembly instructions

    Hello everyone, I'm brand new to 3d printing, learning a little. I am familiar with setting up x-y-z tables in industrial equipment. I bought an Ender 3 pro, and while It was obviously a cost cutting design, I am very pleased with what I've got for the money. The biggest short coming I found was with the instructions. While the assembly process is not hard, there are a few things that should be done right. Given that, I decided to add my own supplemental instructions to go along with the "simple instructions" given as a hard copy and digital on the sd card. There are two versions of the instructions, one graphical, and the other with the same steps with text describing the actions, steps are the same in both and as detailed as the text in the instructions is, they forgot to mention some pretty important things.

    So here are my additions, they range from the fairly obvious, to things most may overlook, I do believe that taking these extra steps should permit smoother operation and could result in better print quality and longer service life. These same principles may apply to some degree or another across other makes and models.

    Following the steps in the pictorial guide provided:

    1- do as the instructions say but only snug the bolts at first. The bolt holes do not align the beams precisely. Using a straight edge, check to see that the two posts are parallel.
    ------use your hand to clamp it to the top of the left beam, clamping directly in the middle of it so the straight edge follows it, and it extends to the right beam, then look for a gap between the straight edge and the right beam, if no gap is seen, try on the bottom, unless you were really lucky, you'll find a gap in one of these two places, rotate the left beam to correct it. Next square the right post off of the left one. Once square, tighten. You can slide the straight edge just short of meeting the opposite beam to ensure you are clamping the straight edge correctly and get a feel for it if necessary. These posts make up the bearing surface for the z-axis so this attention is due.

    2- do this now or do it later, personally I opted to mount the power supply and keep the control panel out of the way until the end to keep it out of harm's way. Cheating the power supply to the right a few mms will allow you that extra room around the build plate to adhere and remove the magnetic pad which can be useful.

    3- Set it in place as shown and snug bolts, before tightening them, ensure that the rear, left corner of the left beam, (that immediately to the left of the bracket you're mounting) is clear, by pressing to the right while tightening if necessary, otherwise it will interfere with mounting of the z-axis motor. You may as well plug the connector before mounting it, it's a little easier.

    4- (or step 9) You should align the leadscrew. Place the leadscrew into the coupler on the z-axis motor and snug it. Either take precise measurements for the position of it's nut on the carriage, or partially start the carriage, so you can see exactly where the top of the leadscrew lines up with it's nut, the plastic strip on the z-axis motor does have enough movement on the little screws to position it the right distance out. Do this with great care, as there is sufficient leverage here to break the plastic quite easily. The bottom of the motor should touch the frame, while it's attachment to the plastic plate set's the angle to where the leadscrew runs true in one dimension. Once that is set right, the Two screws you mounted the z-axis motor with should be slightly loosened and rotating it a fraction of a degree will change the position of the leadscrew. Center it under the nut and snug it. Repeat if necessary.

    5 and 6 - The end brackets that ride up and down have a true edge. Lacking a better method, I'd advise to square this edge to the top of the bar that is the carriage.

    8- You don't just put it on, you set belt tension and alignment. Put it roughly into position with bolts ran all the way in, yet the part free to move, pull straight out to the right to the desired belt tension, snug the left bolt to hold it in place, pivot the bracket up and down, observing the belt's clearance to the rail. If the belt is rubbing, particularly on the sharp edge, it will not last long.

    9- I typed a lot in step 4 that maybe should be here, do all that for as close of alignment as you can, repeating a few times if necessary. After that loosen the two screws that position the nut, and put the assembly in place, over the leadscrew, then run it all the way down, just short of the nozzle hitting the bed, and tighten the screws, as it says, not too tight. If desired, you can get it even better once running by loosening the screws and running it up and down a few mms a few times at the lowest of heights, where the nut will self align, then tighten the screws. (Point here being that the nut will self-align at the lowest of z value, and that the effect of misalignment will magnify at lower z values, like where all builds start!)

    10- This should line up pretty well if you squared the posts in step 1. Still the screwholes allow movement so observe, anything with a flat edge can be used to ensure a square mating.

    11- It shows the filament holder centered, I put mine all the way to the left.


    Here are links to the guides I'm referencing:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgj37t8p4x...tions+V1.0.pdf

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgj37t8p4x...ion+(V1.0).pdf

    As I said, I'm new to 3d printing, so now that I've got fixing the instructions out of the way, you'll all likely see me on this forum with many questions of my own regarding printing parts.

    I hope someone reads this and is helped by it.

    -Mike00
    Last edited by Mike00; 02-07-2019, 07:53 AM.

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