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No need to, because when the distance is more than 2mm, the printer making retraction and in this case the printer was making retraction also in layer change but still have those blumps in every layer.
I have a similar issue with some of the filaments I use. Something to try would be to run a little cooler, or you might try slowing down your print speed.Shooting in the dark here. Not sure about that wipe while retracting feature either.
I have a similar issue with some of the filaments I use. Something to try would be to run a little cooler, or you might try slowing down your print speed.Shooting in the dark here. Not sure about that wipe while retracting feature either.
I had a little cooler fan but when it works all my painting getting warp even when I put some stick glue on the surface and heating it.
Maybe I need to turn it on after a few first layers, this maybe will helps.
About the slower printing, I can't print slower because it will take more than 7 hours for one painting and if this will happen I prefer it in 3 hours rather than without it in 7 hours.
I have a similar issue with some of the filaments I use. Something to try would be to run a little cooler, or you might try slowing down your print speed.Shooting in the dark here. Not sure about that wipe while retracting feature either.
I think they meant to run the extruder temp a little cooler. Oozing is a symptom of too much heat at the extruder. Try printing a temp calibration stick/cube/tower that is designed for your printer. It changes the extruder temperature as it prints and lets you find the best temp for your filament.
As a separate note, slic3r allows you to automagically control your cooling fan during printing and it does a decent job on the default settings. It will allow the first layer to be printed a little hotter and with no cooling fan so that good adhesion is achieved.
Hope this helps
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