I tend to print with a raft as that will hide any uneven surface and simply detaches from the model, although you will get a slightly different surface finish on the bottom. For bed adhesion I use regular B&Q masking tape on top of a heated aluminium bed. It doesn't work so well with a non heated bed as it can peel off during the print, I think the heat softens the adhesive to help the bond. I used to use PVA or ABS juice, but this didn't work so well. I guess my main observation is to try various peoples suggestions and find the one that works well for you.

Hello friend. I have been printing successfully with a geetech prusa i3 pro for quite some time now and here are my experiences. With PLA, you should really not need glue (it never worked well for me anyways). The glass heat bed should be plenty at around 60 to 65 c for most PLA prints. For very small and delicate prints (with little contact area on the print bed), I fend it best to actually use painters tape for a few reasons: It is easy to remove and replace, does not leave a sticky residue even at high heat, and if you want you can apply mixtures to the print bed without actually applying to the glass, even glue if you really still want. This works great if you want to use an ABS slurry (great technique for ABS printing so look it up)because you can just peel the tape off afterwards. The tape also has a matte finish so it works great for those stubborn PLA prints by itself. My main piece of advice is ALWAYS keep that build plate sparkly clean. Not doing so is a recipe for bad prints and many other issues down the road. You want to make sure you don't even have dust or oil from from your hands. Pure clean heated glass with a proper starting print hight (look up the paper rule) is the formula for happy PLA prints. Hope this helped

Hi, Elmers craft glue is good, it is extra strength, I really do not use any kind or glue or any kind of tape. I find that once the bed is leveled you do not need anything with ABS. I relevel the bed roughly twice a year and my 2 printers are used in my business to make parts. Hope this helps.

Hi, I use 3D lac, an aerosol spray similar to hairspray and it works a treat. I use either Acetone or Isopropyl Alcohol to clean away any residue....

In direct reply to your question - yes you will have to if you use any from of glue for adhesion.

I have a glass plate over my heated bed. I use a cheap glue stick and this lasts for about 3 or 4 prints depending. Then I remove the glass bed and wash it under warm water and a sponge with some dishwasher soap on it. Then I drip dry it and reuse.

There has never been a need for alcohol or any other chemicals.

Tried Aerosol spray and the spray coated my printer, table and surrounding items. Don't use it.

Any form of tape is archaic and not ever needed now. If glass and a glue stick don't help, then there are a number of commercial surfaces to choose from

Never use a Raft unless you want your bottom surface to look like crap. If you have a small surface touching then use a large brim but don't ever use a raft.

I like the 3D lac, if used sparingly a can lasts for months and I have had little trouble with mess. I can't use glass as my bed levelling sensor just sees trough it as if it isn't there...

for tape, use a 10 to 20 % mix of pva glue to water (i. e. majority water), wipe over the tape before heating the bed, kapton tape is good if you buy a reel wide enough to cover most of the bed but pei beats all of these hands down. pure acetone followed by isopropyl alcohol are great cleaners, especially the acetone which is also great for cleaning the nozzle. I now have a prusa mk2s that comes with pei and a bed that doesn't need levelling, can't recommend enough.