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Malyan M150 moding or a new printer from scratch?

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    Malyan M150 moding or a new printer from scratch?

    When I have bought my Malyan M150 the idea was simple. I want a cheep machine to enter the world of 3D printing technology, a device that can be extended to gain better functionality. Before I made a decision I have taken into account that there should come time dive deeper to make a better device from the base model. The calculation was, 300eur for the device itself, 300eur for modifications like enclosure, all metal hot end, drylin or high quality linear bearings and some assorted modes like Z axis stiffness mod and sturdier build platform. That all with the goal to have a device with higher capabilities then a 600eur store bought device and much more knowledge in this particular field.

    After four months I have had my fun with it, it works fine. At the day when I registered on the forum I had my first small disaster. A wire from the extruder motor fell out of the terminal mid print and the motor was producing ticking noises a few days back. My reasoning at the time was that it had not good contact for some time. When the wire problem was amended I started it for a second to test and found out the electronic is not working anymore, so the driver, right? No. I disassembled the electronics box, tested the wiring again, tested the motor on another axis, searched for another electronics board, swore to myself that it will have independent drivers, then found out that Marlin disables the E motor when temperature under 170degC. After putting everything together, everything worked, but the ticking sound from the extruder still remained. Then I disassembled the extruder and the hot end, found the disfigured lower part of the ptfe tube inside cone-shaped part of the nozzle. After cleaning everything, drilling the ptfe tube to 2mm, inverting it's direction I have put everything together, and now it works better then when it was new.

    I still have the many unresolved problems, when I have tried to change the bearings because of the noise and play I found out that the shafts are 7.92mm (probably 5/16") and that the new INA bearing has almost the same amount of play. There is some texturing on the sides of the high thin walled objects, so I assume a slight bend on one of the z axles. I have not yet tinkered with the firmware, so there is still factory disabled Extruder min temp which does not allow me to leave it unattended and the printed dimensions are slightly out of sync which should also be resolved with firmware tinkering. So, the simple question is is it all worth it, should I try to make something better from it or rather use it as is and build a new one?

    On the matter of the new build I do like the Ultimaker solution very much, it can be silent and fast at the same time, which are the two main things that this printer may never be.

    What would I expect of the printer, to be less prone to vibration, to be more silent, to be able to use higher temperature materials like HIPS, PET-G, Delrin, to be extendable to dual extruder when the time comes, not to brake the bank.
    1
    To extend the Malyan M150 as much as possible
    0%
    0
    To build a new one from scratch
    100.00%
    1

    #2
    It sounds like you already have worked quite a lot on that model.
    Without ditching it, it can be good to apply all that you learned to a new build, without having to bear the existing history.
    You can even build it over time, no need to build it in 1 pass.
    I have looked at tech2c printer build log ( https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...fe9rtiwvvRGCzw ), and I have to say that I like what he built, and I'm thinking to do something similar.
    It's just a matter of space that stops me, it would not fit my desk anymore.

    So, for me, it would be a new build.

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      #3
      if you can find a sponser to help fund a new build which is a major task researching and outsourcing parts linear rails, rods extruded aluminum what steppers to use and drivers, belts or lead screws cartesian or delta but the printer you do have can make brackets for limit switches belt tensioners. I am in final process of building a 300x300x300 with linear rails and bearing blocks at about $500/rail donated to me probably overkill but I want all axes square and precise. air bearings were a thought but compressor noise a downside. Rods under 12 mm bend too much and need to be hardened chrome plated and IGUS bearings too much friction.Best part of all is that feeling of having engineered your own printer that perhaps could be marketed and if a part breaks you know how to fix it. Then you have to decide on electronics and firmware Marvin Marlin or Richard Repetty or something else and what are all those settings all about. Good Luck Have Fun and Never Give Up

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        #4
        In last few days I have much more contemplated on the idea of a new device. On that matter I have created a parallel topic on the Reprap forum, where I have gotten some nice pointer, best of them being to size the printer to the build platform, and not the platform to the external dimensions of the printer. After reviewing many configurations of printers I do like the Ultimaker solution in the case similar to the Tech2c's. For the bearings the most interesting option for me is sintered bronze plain bearing or ptfe machined bearing. I have also come to the conclusion to use 12mm shafts, 12mm is also the largest bore for a GT2 pulley. There is a type of plain bearing that I liked, made by INA, named Elgoglode with some PTFE/POM or similar layer on the inside, but sintered bronze should be be much less expensive and similarly silent.

        I do like the Tech2c's printer. His build blog have I reviewed while researching the gantry systems. As someone who has double Z axis printer and who had issues with a printer tilting to a side every two weeks I would avoid two motors control of the same axis, as it is done in XY core. So, Ultimaker design is more appealing to me.

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